Photos from Pondicherry

Pondicherry beach
Pondicherry beach

This Dussehra, we took a long-overdue visit to see my family in Chennai. Since Pondicherry is relatively close by, we decided to make a day trip there. Pondicherry is not new to us – we have visited it multiple times (blogged twice about it here and here).

Pondicherry is famous primarily because it’s a former French colony and retains much of its old French heritage. There are several handsome old colonial villas in the French Quarter, which have now turned into hip bars, restaurants, shops, and museums. Pondicherry is also famous because of Auroville – an ideal township experiment that came about in the 1960s. According to their site, Auroville can be described as follows:

It’s an international community dedicated to peace, sustainability and ‘divine consciousness’, where people from across the globe, ignoring creed, color and nationality, work together to build a universal, cash-free, nonreligious township. 

Considering we were making a day trip, we decided to do a couple of things – one option was to visit the Botanical Gardens (to indulge in my newfound love of gardening), then head over to the French Quarter and dine at some exciting restaurants/bars/coffee shops (whatever we could squeeze in), and then head out to Auroville in the evening, and then back home.


Botanical Gardens

I”ll be honest – the gardens were a bit meh. For one, it was sweltering and humid. Also, it felt more like a park than a botanical garden. Sure, it had some nice trees, but as such, I’d say the nurseries in Bangalore have a more comprehensive selection of exotic plants.

So, we pretty much wandered about. We saw some signs indicating an aquarium, which excited Piglet, but once we reached it, we saw a dilapidated building with a bunch of fish tanks. Then, we saw signs advertising a toy train only to see this rusty contraption that traveled at maybe 5 km an hour.

So, it was just like a walk in the park. Piglet saw a gorilla statue, so of course, we must take a photo and we headed out well before our one-hour ticket to the park was due to expire.

Not a very promising start to the day.


The French Quarter

I had planned to visit two highly recommended eateries in the French Quarter. The first one – Café des Arts, is hugely popular on Instagram. They have a very Instagrammable exterior wall, the interiors and food are charming too!

Unfortunately, a massive crowd was waiting for tables to get free, and we were told we’d have to wait an hour or longer. We hung around for a bit, but K got hangry and went investigating some other eating joints nearby, and we lucked out with a lovely sofa-style seating at Villa Shanti just down the road.

Villa Shanti may not be as happening and frenetic as Café des Arts, but it was just perfect for us. Relaxed and elegant, with a broader variety of food (both Indian and continental), we loved the ambiance so much, we spent more time than planned just hanging out there, escaping from the afternoon heat.

The nondescript exterior
Lovely interiors

The food and drinks were both excellent, and I loved the calm, leisurely service – the whole experience was like dining at a Gymkhana club or something (minus the shitty club food).

Here are some photos of the food.

We also ordered some drinks and starters. My mom and I settled on Margaritas (my favorite cocktail), K had a chilled beer, Snubnose got a Virgin Mojito, and Piglet got an excruciatingly sweet orange juice (which he loved).

Snubnose looking like such a sophisticated adult here
Snubnose looks like such a sophisticated adult here

My mom forbids me to include any pics of her online, so she’s been cropped out.

After lunch, we hung out in the French Quarter, walking around somewhat aimlessly down the narrow streets.

A house with yellow walls
Brightly colored walls in White Town

Promenade Beach

Piglet wanted to walk along the beach, and so we moved on to Promenade a little later in the day. It was a beautiful, clear day, with thankfully no crowds.


Auroville

We then headed out of the city to make our appointment with Auroville. Even though I have been to Pondicherry several times, I have always been unlucky when it comes to Auroville. Earlier, you had to make a booking in person at Auroville one day before visiting, and since we always made super-short day trips, it was impossible to enter the premises of its main attraction – Matri Mandir. This time, I saw we could make a booking on their website in advance, and so in great excitement, I booked a time slot for us to visit.

This time also, we were unlucky. The skies started to darken, and by the time we reached Auroville, it was pouring heavily. Plus, because of Covid – the interior of Matri Mandir was closed to tourists, and we could only view it from a distance. So, we trudged through mud and rain to once more only view it from a distance.

The beautiful dome of the Matri Mandir
The beautiful dome of the Matri Mandir

After this somewhat unsatisfying experience (not getting to go inside/closer to the gold dome was a disappointment), K very sternly told me not to bring him again to Auroville. I kind of agree with him though, going through so much of rigmarole with so little pay off multiple times makes me also want to give up on visiting Auroville again.

And that was the end of our time in Pondicherry. Overall, a bit of a mixed bag. Everybody unanimously agreed that our lunch and time spent in the French Quarter was the best part of our trip. Next time we visit, we decided we will book a night’s stay (in Villa Shanti, which also has lodging) and explore further south instead of just sticking to Pondicherry.

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  1. says: Ami Bhat

    The French quarters is my favorite part of Pondicherry. I always find something new here. And Promenade is super relaxing for me. I love sitting on those rocks and watching the sea splash around. There is something so calming about Pondi

  2. says: pamela

    Pondicherry is in my bucket list for long and your post and pictures remind me to visit the place soon. Loved the vibes for sure.

  3. Based on your post, I gather this area to be a place that can make you feel calm and composed. It has that vibe where if something does not go well with the plan, there’s an option in the area to make you move on such as the Villa Shanti, walk in the park, and appreciating the Matri Mandir from a distance. The huge Banyan tree looks mysterious!

  4. I have been to Pondicherry many times and I agree that every corner is beautiful and the city has so many things to. I loved the French quarter and the cafes.

    1. says: Nish

      I can never get bored of Pondicherry. There’s always something new and fun to do.

  5. says: Saurabh

    During my recent South Indian Trip, Pondicherry was supposed to be my last destination but I couldn’t able to make it. Auroville is top of my list. Hopefully, will plan soon!

    1. says: Nish

      Always been very unlucky with Auroville, been so many times, yet never got to visit the inside of the Matri Mandir. The rest of Pondicherry is amazing however.

  6. says: Umiko

    Now you can tell family and friends to skip the Botanical Garden if they plan a trip to Pondichery. Also, go to Villa Shanti instead of Cafe des Arts. Food was delicious and the interior looks beautiful. Sorry to hear about your time in Auroville. Maybe after Covid the experience will be different.

  7. says: Renee

    I would want to visit the Botanical garden, French Quarter and some of those beaches. Sounds like a wonderful destination with a great mix of things to do.

    1. says: Nish

      I would skip the botanical gardens. It was a pleasant walk, but no different from any other public city park.

  8. says: Lisa

    Your photos capture the energy of Pondicherry. The landscape is remarkable and there are plenty of good places to visit! I’ve never heard of it before.

  9. says: Gladys Nava

    Those places are really amazing and beautiful! Perfect for family vacation ♥

  10. says: Thena

    Wow! This looks so amazing! The photos are amazing. I would love to go sometime!

  11. says: Srishty

    I am glad you didnt get a seat in Cafe Des Arts, its only famous due to that wall 😀 there are many good eateries around and I now wish I had visited villa shanti too 😀

    1. says: Nish

      oh! Is the food not good? While we were waiting, we saw platefuls of sandwiches, and burgers, and ice creams go by. And I was really drooling. The food looked amazing.

  12. says: Chloe Faulkner

    The food looks amazing. As does the botanical gardens. I love spending time in wild garden areas among urbanisation. It’s like a little piece of calm.

    1. says: Puloma Bhattacharya

      Pondicherry is an amazing place to visit the Auroville and the stunning French quarters. Cafe de arts seems to depict a rich art work for tourists to enjoy. Shanti villa is tempting with it’s tempting menus.

  13. Pondicherry and the french quarter sounds like a lovely holiday. I would love to visit! I love the yoga vibes too. Thanks so much for sharing.

  14. I’m such a broken record but WOW I can’t believe how big the kids are! They’re so lanky now! And I’m glad y’all had a nice time in the French Quarter, at least. I really liked Pondicherry when I was there, although we didn’t do a ton of exploring outside the French Quarter — my friend and I were both really tired and mainly just wanted to wander around, go to shops, and eat, so that’s what we did.

    1. says: Nish

      Yes, Piglet especially has suddenly shot up. He was always short and chubby, but the past couple of years, he’s shot up so fast with huge hands and feet.